Frequently Asked Questions

Q: I am not sure how I want to water and drain the containers for my plants. What are my options?

A: First, the water options chart highlights the major choices available for providing moisture to the plants.

STONEWEAR containers can accommodate any type of automated watering systems since the plumbing can enter through a drilled hole on any side of the unit. Conventional twist drills will make a hole easily which can subsequently be sealed with Sikaflex.
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A: Yes, and they perform beautifully. We call it IROX^*because it provides both IRrigating and OXygenating requirements of living plants.

IROX^* is a self-contained, internal watering system option in the fabrication of STONEWEAR containers that supplies both IRrigation and OXygen to the plant’s root structure.

IROX^* creates a dynamic, self-controlled, natural relationship between the plant environment and the moisture/air ratios required for optimum subsurface growth. This means that appropriate but different amounts of water is available for plants in the same general area, but with different exposures to the sun and wind. IROX performs well in both interior and exterior applications. There is more detail on IROX in Technical Topics.

With plant combinations where there are major level changes in the root location a two tier IROX system is required. The most common example of this would be deep rooted trees or large shrubs with small seasonal flowering ground cover around the base of the larger plants. It is possible to have an intermediate depth IROX system. Contact STONEWEAR for details.

A: Review the drain options chart as a guide to your choices. Most are dependent on your specific site conditions.

Please note: in freezing climates, drain holes are required.

The simplest solution is to drill holes in the bottom of the container and allow excess water to drain out. If you want to keep water off the surrounding area, external saucers or invisible trays can be utilized. Issues concerning a decision between these two options are summarized in the following diagram.

Trays are less expensive - 20 to 50% less than comparable saucer.
Trays have greater capacity - Hold approximately 3.5x more water.
Aesthetics - An invisible tray vs. a saucer where salts and debris collect.

Everyone worries about what happens to the water in the tray. Forget it! It evaporates without the necessity of unsightly vents or side holes.

If water is coming out from under the trayed container, it is from excessive top watering. Cut back on the watering and it will disappear. In ten years of giving this advice, there has never been a return call. Trust us!

An expensive mess! If you insist on plumbing a drain to each planter, it is easier to use a floor drain with a slight depression around it in the footprint of the planter. Drill the hole in the planter directly above the drain after the exact placement of the planter has been confirmed.

Piping is never stubbed out exactly where it is supposed to be, so ordering units with cast drain openings guarantees the planters will never be located properly.

If you must have drains plumbed to the planters, cut the bottom holes on site. This can be done with a hole saw or saber saw. Sealing these "field joints" is possible but it requires significant "attention to detail" - water is unforgiving in finding a way out. Test units overnight before planting.

Most commercially maintained plants are de-watered by using a wet/dry shop vacuum to remove excess water from the bottom of the planter. A 1 1/2" or 2" "PVC" pipe with removable cap is placed in the container before the bottom is filled with loose fill gravel, foam packaging peanuts, or similar granular material and usually covered with a filter fabric before adding the planting mix. The pipe provides a pathway to insert a smaller pipe attached to the vacuum to remove old, excess water.

A: As to how, IRrigation and OXygenation works the same way ground water works in the earth's surface; i.e. water moves up through the natural porous layer of soil to evaporate into the air. In the same way, when there is a reservoir of water in the bottom of the container that has access to the planting mix (via the wick) it will naturally percolate up past the roots moving to the surface to evaporate.

The why is another example of entropy, the second law of thermodynamics. Nature does not like concentrations of anything and there is a natural tendency for all concentrations of matter to dissipate or move toward areas where it is less concentrated. In this way, the concentrated water through the wick always wants to move toward lower concentrations of water until eventually it reaches the surface and evaporates into the air. It is an elegant self-regulating system.
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A: Use landscaping fabric that holds back particles but allows water to pass over the holes or gravel in the bottom of the container before adding the planting mix. Material is available in large rolls from landscaping or irrigation suppliers.
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A: The capacity of the containers are in cubic feet on the far right side of the chart listing dimensions. Add the capacities per unit for a total amount of planting mix required.

Planting mix is sold by the cubic foot or cubic yard. (27 cubic feet = 1 cubic yard).

Plants are usually sold in containers where the capacity is indicated in gallons (7.5 gallons = 1 cubic foot).

If you need a more exact estimate of the planting mix, you add the capacity of the plant containers and subtract it from the total capacity of the STONEWEAR planters.

If the planters have casters, trays, or IROX, the capacity will be less because these options consume about 6 inches of the internal depth of the units.
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A: The STONEWEAR units are relatively light compared to their size. Even large 5’ and 6’ diameter containers can be placed by hand. Assume each person can lift approximately 100 lb., view the Dimension, Weight, and Capacity chart for the planters shape to see the weight of the unit to determine how many people will be required, i.e. divide weight by 100 to get number of people required.

If a fork lift is available it is easiest and least likely to damage the units to move them on a pallet and then to slide them off when the pallet is placed adjacent to the site where they are going to be located.

If the units are filled with dirt in one area and moved to their permanent location, it is very important not to move the units on the forks without being on a pallet. This almost invariably causes the bottom to crack, due to excessive strain by the tips of the forks on a small heavily loaded area of the bottom.

A convenient way to move planters on a finished floor or even on pavement is to use a long carpet scrap upside down. The planter is placed on one end and pulled from the other. A pipe (or similar object) can be rolled into the pulling end of the carpet to make a handle. Never barrel roll the planters as a movement method. The risk of damage is high.
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A: If it is desirable to move the units after they are filled and planted, the units can be fabricated with casters that are mounted on a recessed base so they are not visible. These are normally mounted so there is approximately 1/4" clearance between the bottom of the pot and the surface they are resting on. If the surface is irregular or has many joints (expansion or decorative) it should be noted when placing the order so higher clearance can be provided if it is deemed necessary.

Q: Can the planters be installed, end to end, to create the appearance of a continuous line, semi-circle, or circle?

A: Yes they can, but it is necessary and advisable to order the units with specially designed sides that will be adjacent to one another. This will allow a "unit to unit" fit and eliminate the gap created by many of the designs which have a protruding lip. Moreover, the units will appear to be continuous because the special sides are dropped and sealed in the planting area so there is no break in the apparent planting area.

A: No, STONEWEAR is extremely resilient due to the extra high density of the matrix and the increased strength from the glass fiber. It is far superior to cast concrete and it will not spald or crack due to cycling through freezing and thawing conditions.
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Q: In outdoor environments subjected to significant freezing conditions, can anything be done to protect the root systems of the plants so that they can survive the winter?

A: Yes, the units can be cast with integral foam insulation which can be sized to whatever R value is deemed necessary.
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Q: If trees are planted outdoors in areas subjected to high winds, can they be tied with guy wires to maintain them in a vertical position?

A: Yes, you simply need to specify the number of embedded eyes required and the approximate strength required and these can be cast in when the units are fabricated. There is an additional charge for this option.
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Q: Can these planters be used in a roof top garden application where there are limitations on the weight?

A: Yes, STONEWEAR containers are consistently used in roof and deck applications where weight is an issue. STONEWEAR products weigh 1/5 to 1/10 the weight of conventional cast stone containers. Remember, the dirt with which the units will be filled adds more weight than the unit itself. Call your local supplier and ask for a light weight planting mix. This should be around a 100 lb. per cubic foot.
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A: Yes, virtually any type of outdoor lighting fixture that is made to be recessed in a wall can be cast into a STONEWEAR container. Please provide us with a cut sheet describing the lighting unit with applicable dimensions and drawings before requesting a bid.
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A: It is possible to seal the drain holes and make a water tight container. Unfortunately, it is not easily done with materials you can find at the home improvement center. The best bet is to call STONEWEAR with the number of holes to be sealed and get a hole sealing kit.

A: Smooth surfaces can be cleaned with any detergent type cleaner and a towel or cloth. Rough textured surfaces will require use of a bristle brush and rinse water to remove dirt etc. See Technical Topics for more detailed instructions.
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Q: Why don't you have any trash receptacles that are covered to keep the rain out of the container?

A: Contrary to what "common sense" might suggest, it is hard to get enough water into a trash receptacle to be a sufficient problem for the collector. There is an 8" hole in the top of all STONEWEAR trash receptacles. That represents about a 50 sq. inch opening, which will collect less than a quart of water when an inch of rain falls. That is no worse than someone throwing his girlfriend's Big Gulp into the trash after she changes her mind. Moreover, it does not require much paper product to absorb even a gallon of water, and it all starts to evaporate as soon as the rain stops. Really, it's not a problem!
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A: There are two methods: (1) Mechanical: Drill through the bottom of the receptacle to the floor and use any type of wedge anchor to secure it. However, this permanently disfigures the floor and leaves one or more holes if you want to move the location of the receptacle at a later date. (2) Use four dabs of Sikaflex around the perimeter of the receptacle, following the directions enclosed with the adhesive, (especially with regards to surface preparation). Should you desire to move the receptacle at a later date, the adhesive can be cut with a thin blade and then cut or scraped from the floor carefully leaving the floor in its original condition, more or less.

Frequently Asked Questions and Product Options

Please note: in freezing climates, drain holes are required.

Frequently Asked Questions
and Product Options